Remember that feeling when you desperately need a getaway, but life keeps throwing curveballs? That was exactly us, right after our fantastic Istanbul adventure back in March. We were craving another escape, a chance to recharge, and a camping trip seemed like the perfect idea. But, as often happens with outdoor plans, the weather forecast looked absolutely dreadful. So, with a quick pivot, we decided on a spontaneous weekend trip to Mulhouse, France. And let me tell you, this Mulhouse weekend trip turned into quite the personal itinerary, filled with unexpected turns, delightful discoveries, and a whole lot of laughter.
Nicole had never been to France before, so this felt like the perfect opportunity to introduce her to the country. With some vacation days still in hand for me, and a national bank holiday in Switzerland on Friday, we decided to hop on a train directly after Nicole finished work on Thursday evening. Mulhouse’s proximity to Switzerland was incredibly convenient; the train ride was a breezy hour and a half. Plus, with our Swiss public transport subscription from SBB, we only had to pay a mere 9 euros per person for the cross-border leg of the journey a fantastic start to our French adventure!
Arrival and an Airbnb Adventure
The train ride itself was smooth sailing, and we arrived in Mulhouse right on schedule around 7 PM. Stepping off the train, we were immediately faced with our first little puzzle: figuring out the local public transportation to our Airbnb. We quickly realized our apartment wasn’t exactly in the most convenient spot for public transport, about a 30-minute walk from the city center. And surprisingly, taking the tram didn’t really cut down the travel time much. After a few stops, we hopped off, finding ourselves in a neighborhood that felt distinctly local a refreshing change from the usual tourist hotspots.
As we approached our building, a tiny shiver of unease started to creep in. The place looked a little older, almost like something straight out of a quirky indie horror film. The small wooden stairs creaked dramatically as we ascended, and the dim lighting added to the mysterious atmosphere. It wasn’t until we were right in front of our door that the automatic lights finally flickered on, casting long, dancing shadows. We retrieved the key from the key box and slowly entered, a mix of excitement and a touch of ‘what have we gotten ourselves into?’ bubbling within us.
This Airbnb was completely new, with zero reviews a bold move for me, as I usually stick to highly-rated accommodations. You can even check out the apartment yourself on Airbnb. Our biggest fear was confirmed the moment we stepped inside: the apartment reeked of cigarette smoke, a definite no-go for us. While the rest of the apartment seemed in good condition, the bathroom had a particularly unpleasant, almost urine-like smell. Despite these initial setbacks, the main reason we booked this place was the hot tub, a much-needed amenity to unwind from our stressful weeks. We knew the bubbles could only be used until 10 PM, so our mission was clear: eat quickly and get back in time!
We set off on foot to an Asian restaurant, a mere 5-10 minute walk from our apartment. To Nicole’s absolute delight, we encountered numerous cats along the way. It seemed the people of Mulhouse had a fondness for feline companions, as we spotted one on almost every street corner a small joy that instantly brightened Nicole’s spirits. The Asian restaurant itself was nothing extraordinary, but the food was solid and satisfying. Back at the apartment, it was exactly 10 PM, so we could only enjoy the hot tub without the bubbles. Still, after the day’s journey and the initial Airbnb surprises, it was a welcome moment of relaxation.
Cars, Croissants, and and Mulhouse city center
Our first full day in Mulhouse was all about taking it easy. We woke up surprisingly refreshed and, around 10 or 11 AM, made our way to a local boulangerie. The aroma of fresh pastries filled the air as Nicole bravely practiced her French, attempting to order her coffee with a promising “je voudrais…” only to trail off, leaving the cashier looking at us with a puzzled “what?” It was a funny moment, a little linguistic hiccup that just added to the charm of our trip. Despite the minor hurdle, we secured our delicious croissant and coffee for Nicole, and a chocolate drink for me, ready to fuel our day.
Energized, we headed to the nearest tram station and rode all the way to the Cité de l’Automobile, which happens to be the largest automobile museum in Europe. You can find more information about the Cité de l’Automobile. The entry fee was 18 euros per person, and let me tell you, it was absolutely worth every cent. We were completely mesmerized by the vast collection of old automobiles, marveling at how many brands existed back then and witnessing the incredible evolution of cars over time. It was an amazing experience that we highly recommend to anyone visiting Mulhouse. The only slight disappointment was the gift shop, which lacked appealing merchandise or offered items at exorbitant prices. After spending about 2-3 hours immersed in automotive history, we emerged super hungry.
We took the tram back to the city center and found ourselves in a shopping center near Porte Jeune. Surprisingly, we weren’t craving traditional French cuisine. Instead, we treated ourselves to a bucket of chicken tenders at Kentucky Fried Chicken. Now, I don’t often eat KFC, and I always thought fast food was, well, fast. But this order took forever almost 20 minutes! I’m not sure if it was just my hunger talking, but it felt like an eternity. Despite the wait, I actually really enjoyed the chicken, but the true revelation was the Pepsi Cherry. I had never tried it before, and this thing tasted absolutely amazing!
With full stomachs and regained energy, we decided to explore the city a bit more. Mulhouse was pleasantly uncrowded, with very few tourists, and the weather was unexpectedly perfect sunshine and warm, ideal t-shirt weather, completely defying the gloomy forecast. We wandered through different areas, stumbling upon a matcha store where Nicole found a White Chocolate Monin Syrup and an adorable cat-shaped spoon to stir her coffee. You can check out the matcha store. After a quick stop at a grocery store, we decided it was time to head back to our apartment and finally enjoy the hot tub with bubbles. We spent a few hours soaking, truly relaxing and recovering from the exhausting weeks we’d had. Having our own hot tub or bathtub in our accommodation is something we truly appreciate, as it allows us to unwind after a day of exploring or simply rest.
Mulhouse in the Evening
Later that evening, as we were getting ready to head out for dinner, something unsettling happened. Around 9 AM, before we were due to check out, we heard a man screaming outside, sounding as if he had been stabbed. This was followed by the cries of a baby. We were quite scared and wondered what on earth had happened, but when we eventually left the Airbnb, there was no sign of anything amiss. It remains a mystery to this day, a strange and curious incident that added an unexpected layer to our Mulhouse experience.
Finished with relaxing, it was already time again to go to the city for dinner and to also check the grocery stores. We love doing this in every country we visit just browsing the products, especially the drinks, and finding new snacks to try. So we did here as well, we bought an alcohol-free piña colada drink and some French cookies. For dinner, we had chosen Le Boga restaurant, which we found on Google with very good reviews, known for its meats. But the reviews were not that accurate. We waited 45 minutes for the food and also already 30minutes for the drinks. The Meat was dry and way overcooked, not really enjoable. We can unfortunately not recommend that Restaurant. The weather, as well fitting to the food, had taken a turn for the worse; it was raining heavily, and we were completely unprepared, walking around in rain jackets but only t-shirts and shorts underneath.
Planning is not always our strong suit, especially when it comes to checking the weather! The restaurant itself was unfortunately disappointing. We waited 30 minutes for our drinks, which were good, but then another 45 minutes for our food, and we were freezing because we had chosen a table on the balcony. When the meat finally arrived, we were starving, but it wasn’t good at all. I had ordered medium-cooked meat, and my wife ordered meat sticks; both were overcooked and chewy. I’ve never had to chew on a piece of meat for so long. Not a nice way to end the day.
Day 2: French Bakeries, Korean Beauty, and a Farewell to Mulhouse
The second and also already the last day of our Mulhouse adventure began with a delightful return to the flavorful bakeries of France. It was Saturday, and every Saturday, Mulhouse hosts a huge market at Le Marché, bustling with boucheries, boulangeries, and vibrant fruit and vegetable stands. It’s literally a place where you can find everything you need. We found some delicious “Pain au Chocolat” for our breakfast. We took them to go and headed to Starbucks in the city center, where we enjoyed our French pastries with a cup of coffee for Nicole and a hot chocolate for me.
With full stomachs, it was time to explore the city’s stores a bit more. We visited a Korean beauty store, where Nicole bought a facial cream. Then, we went to a coffee store. Nicole, being a coffee lover, wanted to try French coffee, but we learned that due to the climate, France doesn’t actually produce its own coffee beans. So, she opted for a Costa Rican blend instead a little piece of home! The staff at Un Monde de Cafés were super nice and helpful, and we highly recommend the place. After that, we also went to some papeteries (stationery shops) in search of nice pens, as I’ve been wanting to get back into physical writing. I even bid for a typewriter recently more on that in an upcoming blog post!
We found some pens and, deciding on a quick and easy meal, chose to eat at KFC again. It was fast, affordable, and delicious a reliable choice after our previous dinner disappointment. With that, our Mulhouse weekend trip came to an end at around 5 PM on Saturday. We truly enjoyed our few days away with some relaxing parts of it. The apartment had some good and some bad things coming with it, but overall, we really enjoyed our stay. We can highly recommend checking out Mulhouse for yourself; it’s not that crowded, has plenty to offer, and the automobile museum was definitely our highlight.
Mulhouse proved to be a charming, if sometimes quirky, destination. It taught us that even when plans go awry, and accommodations aren’t perfect, the spirit of adventure and the joy of shared experiences can turn any trip into a memorable one. It was a much-needed mental reset, allowing us to recover from stressful weeks and create new, unique memories together. So, if you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path European getaway that combines culture, history, and a touch of unexpected charm, Mulhouse might just be your next destination. Give it a try, and embrace the unexpected!
