Last December, my girlfriend Nicole, a first-time visitor to Switzerland, and I embarked on a three-week European adventure armed with an Interrail/Eurail pass. Eager to share the captivating magic of winter in Europe, I planned our itinerary.
Traditional swiss dishes in Basel and freezing cold weather in Germany
Our journey began in Switzerland, my home country. We spent the first couple of days relaxing at home, embracing the cozy atmosphere and the familiar sights. Soon, we were ready to hit the road. Our first stop on the Interrail map was Basel, still within Switzerland’s borders. We strolled through the picturesque old town, admiring the charming architecture and soaking in the festive spirit. We couldn’t resist indulging in the traditional “Basler Läckerli” biscuits – a chewy gingerbread cookie. Refueling for further exploration, we settled into a cozy Swiss restaurant and enjoyed a hearty plate of “Rösti,” a classic potato dish that warmed us up from the inside out.
Feeling re-energized, we hopped on another train, heading for Freiburg, Germany, a city that held a special significance for my girlfriend – it was her first encounter with German soil. The December chill was a bit nippy for me, but for her, it was a whole new level of cold. Upon arriving in the evening, we checked into our hotel and immediately ventured out to explore the vibrant Christmas market in Freiburg’s old town. The festive atmosphere was captivating – bustling crowds, twinkling lights, and the delicious aromas of spices and roasted chestnuts filled the air. We sipped on steaming cups of punch, a warm hug in a mug, and enjoyed a classic German currywurst, the perfect blend of savory and spicy flavors.
The next day brought a surprise unique to some European countries – Sunday closures. As a Swiss resident, I was familiar with this phenomenon, which often leads to many Swiss people opting for scenic hikes on Sundays due to limited options. Freiburg was no different. While initially a bit disappointed, we decided to head to a charming cat cafe we had spotted earlier. Unfortunately, the resident feline crew seemed content to remain out of sight that day, adding a touch of humor to our experience. We settled for some hot chocolate and coffee – while the beverages were decent, the vegan recipe didn’t quite hit the spot taste-wise.
With limited options at our disposal, fate intervened in the form of a Bundesliga football game taking place that day. Neither of us are die-hard fans, but with no other plans in the making, we decided to experience a slice of German sports culture. To our surprise, most seats were already taken, leaving us with just two next to each other – a small victory in the sea of sold-out tickets. Before entering the stadium, we grabbed a delicious German sausage in a bun. The smoky, savory goodness of the sausage proved to be the highlight of the game itself, which, to be honest, was a bit chilly and uneventful. But the experience of cheering alongside the enthusiastic crowd was a memorable one.
Later that same day, after the football match, we grabbed our bags from the hotel and hopped on a train bound for Frankfurt. It turned out my girlfriend had an unexpected addition to her European must-see list – Frankfurt. While I wasn’t exactly picturing it as a picturesque postcard destination (though the skyscrapers hold some appeal), I was happy to follow her lead. A few hours later, we arrived in Frankfurt and headed straight for the hotel, as the day was already waning.
The following day presented another unplanned adventure. We set out to explore the city’s center and admire its renowned skyscrapers. Unfortunately, fate had a different plan in store – a thick fog descended upon the city, transforming the majestic skyline into a sea of grey. It was quite a contrast to the previous days of sparkling sunshine and clear blue skies. We decided to head back to the Christmas Market. We enjoyed the festive atmosphere and warmed ourselves up with steaming cups of punch. Our love affair with German sausages continued with a delicious meal at a traditional restaurant, where we savored them alongside potatoes and tangy sauerkraut. With the thick fog showing no signs of clearing, we decided to maximize our Interrail/Eurail pass and hop on another train.
A short journey later, we arrived in Munich, greeted by a stunning day bathed in sunshine. The contrast from the fog-bound Frankfurt was almost unbelievable! Munich unfolded its charms with a vibrant Christmas market, where we indulged in the sweet treat known as Dampfnudeln. We then discovered a unique burger joint offering miniature burgers – a fantastic way to sample a variety of flavors! Refueled and energized, we ventured to the “Studio of Wonders,” a fun space where we captured a series of memorable photos together in different settings. The day concluded on a delicious note with a feast of dumplings at Dami’s Asian Kitchen and Bar – a perfect ending to an unexpectedly delightful day in Munich.
Innsbruck Intrigue and Alpine Adventures
The next morning in Munich, we explored more of the charming old town and indulged in some retail therapy, finding matching necklaces and browsing through other shops. By afternoon, it was time to continue our journey. A short train ride later, we arrived in Innsbruck, eager to check in to our hotel. Unfortunately, stomach troubles kept us confined to the hotel for most of the day. Thankfully, by 9 pm, hunger pangs overcame the discomfort, and we ventured out in search of food. To our surprise, most restaurants were either closed or no longer serving food at that late hour. After a lengthy walk (about an hour!), we finally found an Asian restaurant – a familiar comfort food haven for us self-proclaimed Asian cuisine enthusiasts! While the hearty meal might not have been ideal for our slightly dodgy stomachs, it did the trick, and we ended the day feeling satisfied.
True to our spontaneous travel style, we hadn’t planned much for Innsbruck. The next morning, we started with a fortifying breakfast at a bakery before setting our sights on the Alpenzoo, a hillside zoo boasting stunning panoramic views of the city. Despite the cold weather, the clear skies and sunshine made for a beautiful experience. While seeing many enclosures empty – a reminder of the animals settling into winter mode – we could appreciate the potential vibrancy of the zoo in summer with all its inhabitants on display. Despite not being huge fans of zoos due to the ethical implications, we couldn’t deny the fascination of seeing these magnificent creatures up close.
The afternoon brought an exciting adventure – a trip to the Hafelekarspitze via funicular and gondola. Though it was getting late and the sun was slowly sinking below the horizon, we managed to catch a glimpse of a breathtaking sunset from the mountaintop. The weather at the summit, however, was a different story – a combination of fog, strong winds, and our inadequate clothing made it less than ideal. Nevertheless, we considered it a success – witnessing a sunset amidst snow-capped mountains was an unforgettable experience. To celebrate (or more accurately, to warm ourselves up!), we enjoyed a steaming cup of tea in the restaurant before wearily descending back to the city. After a day filled with walking and exploring, we were thoroughly exhausted. A quick shopping stop for new gloves and thicker socks to combat the upcoming cold, and we were ready to drift off to a well-deserved sleep.
Bolzano Bliss: Finding Relaxation at Pippo’s Lodge
We were beat! After staring at guidebooks and phone screens for almost an hour (who knew planning could be so tiring?), our bodies ached for a break. We were carrying heavy backpacks and feeling the travel bug starting to wear off. Luckily, with a quick search on booking.com, we found our perfect escape: Pippo’s Lodge, a wellness retreat tucked away in Oberbolzano. It was affordable and exactly what we needed – pampering time!
Suitcases packed and Interrail passes activated, we embarked on a train journey, arriving in Bolzano. A gondola ride whisked us up to Oberbolzano, and after a short 10-15 minute walk, we finally reached our haven of relaxation – Pippo’s Lodge.
The room exceeded expectations – luxurious, with friendly staff and the ultimate indulgence: a whirlpool balcony! Without wasting a moment, we made a beeline for the spa area, a haven of saunas, pools, and an inviting outdoor space. The receptionist, even more generous than the spa itself, unlocked the infinity pool for our exclusive use. Even though the air was crisp and cool, the amazing views of the Dolomites and the warm, inviting pool made it feel absolutely magical.
We thought we’d scored the ultimate relaxation jackpot! The spa area was completely empty, just the two of us to soak up the peace and quiet. But then, fate (or maybe my forgetfulness) threw us a curveball. We were enjoying the fresh air outside in our bathrobes when I realized we’d left our room keys inside! Needing them to get back in, We had to do the walk of shame: a barefoot dash in our bathrobes around the entire building to find the receptionist and apologize profusely. (Yes, it was totally my fault. My girlfriend even said we should take our stuff outside, but I was naively convinced, that we can leave it inside the Spa Area.) Thankfully, we were forgiven and allowed back into paradise. We grabbed our belongings and spent a gloriously extended time enjoying the spa after all.
Opting for convenience after days of exploration, we decided to dine at Pippo’s Lodge itself. The dining area mirrored the spa experience – a private haven just for us two. While the solitude was initially a bit awkward, it couldn’t diminish the incredible dinner and equally stellar breakfast the next morning.
Our booking included a Visitor’s Card, granting free public transport throughout Bolzano. Unfortunately, our looming Christmas deadline (the 24th!) meant we couldn’t fully exploit this perk. Nevertheless, it was a thoughtful addition. With a tinge of regret at leaving this oasis behind, we set off for our next destinations – Verona and Milan.
Italian Whirlwind: Coffee in Verona and Milano Mishap
Our train journey to Verona felt like an eternity, despite the modest two-hour duration. Upon arrival, we explored the iconic Colosseum and indulged in refreshing gelato and coffee. However, Verona didn’t hold us long, and we soon found ourselves rushing towards Milan, our next stop.
The hunt for a hotel in Milan proved surprisingly fruitful, with an abundance of affordable options. We opted for a budget-friendly hotel near the train station, prioritizing convenience over luxury. Unfortunately, upon arrival, disappointment awaited us. Our room, located on the -1 floor, was directly above the garage and overflowing with unpleasant sights and sounds. Opening the window unleashed a symphony of car noises and occasional wafts of unsavory smells depending on the wind’s direction. The room temperature was the final straw. The air conditioning wasn’t working, making the space an uncomfortable 27 degrees Celsius. Sweat dripped down our faces, and despite asking the hotel staff for help, nothing seemed to change.
Determined to salvage our spirits, we ventured out for dinner. A delicious pizza in a charming restaurant with attentive staff proved to be the perfect antidote to the hotel fiasco. Refueled by good food and warm hospitality, we strolled through the city center, admiring the grandeur of the Duomo and its surrounding area. Exhausted by the day’s mishaps, we retreated to our “sauna room” for an early night’s sleep.
While the hotel breakfast wasn’t amazing, at least it was included in our stay. Undeterred, we explored the city further, walking through Milan’s vibrant heart. However, fatigue and a growing sense of illness sapped our usual energy. A visit to the famed Starbucks Roastery was scrapped, and we decided to cut our Milan visit short and head straight for our final destination – Locarno.
Locarno’s Charm and a Bittersweet Finale
Despite arriving in Locarno feeling under the weather, we mustered the energy to explore the city center. A dazzling light show illuminated the streets, and an inviting ice rink nestled amidst the charming Christmas market filled the air with festive cheer. Locarno has always held a special place in my heart – its quaint old town, delectable cuisine, and stunning Lago Maggiore offer something for everyone. We opted for a traditional Ticino meal, but the looming illness dulled our usual gusto for the local flavors. We decided to try our luck at the casino for the grand finale of the day, but fortune wasn’t on our side. Fatigue beckoned us, and we retreated for an early night.
With a final push of energy, we decided to conquer Cardada Mountain the next day. The reward – breathtaking panoramic views of Locarno and Lago Maggiore. We sipped drinks at a restaurant atop the mountain, basking in the perfect weather – clear blue skies, sunshine, and record-breaking December warmth. Just like in Milan, our winter jackets felt like unwelcome extras. Unfortunately, Nicole wasn’t feeling her best, and with limited time before our journey home, we didn’t linger long on Cardada. Our final train ride from Locarno back home stretched for four long hours, leaving us thoroughly exhausted upon arrival. But we made it – just in time for Christmas dinner at 6 pm, exactly as planned.
Our adventure had reached its final chapter. We’d packed a lot into a condensed timeframe, and I think my plan to show Nicole as much as possible was a success. We cherished our time together, reveling in new sights, traditional dishes, and exciting experiences. A repeat adventure is definitely on the cards, with a slower pace to truly savor each destination. While undeniably tiring, with more time, we’d embrace slower exploration, devoting more time to each place and indulging in deeper discovery. Despite the slight rush, everything fell into place perfectly – an incredible Interrail trip across Europe.
Just a few days after our return, illness struck both of us, lingering until Nicole had to go back to Costa Rica. This unfortunately limited our Swiss exploration, saving it for another time. But even with these setbacks, we still managed to enjoy moments together. However, those stories are for another day. Thank you for reading – I hope you enjoyed our whirlwind adventure!
In the meantime check out my blog Post about how to write your firs book. From Backpack to Book: How to write your first book!
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Good mood and good luck to everyone!!!!!